Rosa Bonheur – An idyllic cabin in Buttes Chaumont

Bucolic delights reign at Rosa Bonheur, a rustic tavern set in a former guinguette in the heart of the picturesque Buttes Chaumont park. This idyllic place happens to be in northern Paris, the leafy heart of boho-land, far away from the tourist trails.

Its name loosely translates as ‘pink happiness’ but refers to 19th-century French artist ‘Rosa Bonheur’, famous for her massive depictions of animals as well as for wearing trousers and smoking cigarettes. The iconic bar has kept the eccentric spirit of its namesake alive, catering to a casual crowd of local bohemians and hipsters.

Rosa Bonheur, Buttes Chaumont

Rosa Bonheur, Buttes Chaumont

Rosa Bonheur is a charming watering hole, and for Parisians of all persuasions, its terrace is the place to see and be seen during the warm season. Sit back and enjoy the shade of the tall chestnut trees as you sip on your beer, or more like, French wine (they even have their own label). There’s a bistro where you can get delicious french appetizers and a wide range of beverages, and where you can run for cover if the typical drizzle suddenly sets in.

Rosa Bonheur is also the unofficial gay meeting point on Sunday afternoon and it attracts guys from all across Paris. The ambience is cutting edge community centre and the setting, with the park’s landmark twin peak hillocks looming, is a perfect antidote to a weekend of high-octane clubbing. Once the park closes, the bar puts on its party face as DJs get the boisterous crowd on their feet for a brief but wild time on the dance floor.

Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur indoors

A practical tip for those going on a Sunday is arriving before 6pm. After this time, the place tends to get very busy and the line could take a long time, especially in summer time and sunny days.

This secluded guinguette is where locals come to relax on when the sun is shining. I would have never found this place if my local friend hadn’t taken me there on a Sunday evening. Rosa Bonheur is an idyllic cabin in the woods that nobody should be afraid to knock on!

Hours: Wed-Sun 12-24 (last admission into the park at 22)

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